maanantai 14. joulukuuta 2015

Mikkeli Työväen Kiipeilijät – Training in The East




It has been quite freaking awesome training years in Mikkeli bouldering area.


I wished to have perfect study years on perfect rock, but it went quite wrong. At least there was optimal friction on ice hall ....hahhahhaha
so I did some training.



I also met quite strong and brutal climbers like Jussi, Ikoska, Juksteri, Koponen and Weeti the Sloth!

I brushed one cool route called:
Limp Dick Massage. Definitely ***, 5- (Little bit runout) “tard”. (Please ask about for gear placement if you are not familiar to trad. climbing yet.)


Thank you all and see you on wall ...some sunny day.


keskiviikko 2. joulukuuta 2015

Efesfest 2015


We were driving to Helsinki saturday morning. I asked my Mates when are they going to Geyikbayiri. They told me that they are flying next friday. Henkka had Antalya climbing guide with him in the car. I had quick look at it and felt flash of envy about their coming trip. My inner child said out loud " I want to go too :) " Boyz invited me to come along with them. I quickly checked my work schechule and found out that luckily i had my 4 days off when the trip was due. Also i remembered that i had 3 days unused vacation days. A hint of hope and excitement rushed thru me. I thought that i have to ask my boss first and same time i was already looking for flights and checking if their hotel had vacancy. 




Henkka and Sami Flew to Antalya Friday. I followed saturday. They had rented a car already when i arrived. The hotel was located in Antalya old town and was fab. 4 star place with little courtyard in 2 levels and a restaurant. I slept 2 hours before i drove to airport to catch my flight so i was knackered and full of excitement on arrival. I checked in and took my climbing gear and we headed towards Geyikbayiri.


video


It was my first climbing on a rock since the shoulder op. My shoulder and neck got stuck during the flight. First route was easy, but my neck was getting worse so i decided to take a painkiller wich helped soon. Then I managed to send 6a+.  It felt good, instead of littlest pain in the shoulder. I was on fire. I never enjoyed so much climbing 6as

Shoulders crux of Big in Japan 6a+







Back at Hotel Sami went straight to a hotel bar and got cold Efes. I followed his example and mmm soo good that i had to get another! That became returning from the crag routine. Efeees!!!!

We got up every morning at 8 for breakfast. I quite enjoyed sitting back seat of the car and wondering the delights of turkish traffic :D The bit that we got to the countryside roads was the best. Beautiful scenery and the mountains were basking in the mediterranean sun.





Market and Götzeme central!



The most i climbed one day was 8 routes. 5s and low sixes. Just to get loads of meters. Shoulder was working better by the day. No pain, just little stiff in some moves. Henkka and Sami climbed more than i did. They just went for it. Moremoremore :D Even in the midday heat!!!

Sami doin moves

 Henkka belaying



Grades and bolting varied depending on sector and obviously who'd done the routes. Some routes were overbolted or just "friendly" and the others almost runout and intimidating. Check the bolts in the next pic. Henkka didn't have enough draws for this pitch. I cleaned every other in the lead :D


Few sectors in the afternoon shade. This is from Canyon. Miss Piggy 6a


Rock quality varied of course from slabby grey and sharp to cobblestone like slightly loose and bit nerve wrecking sometimes so blind trust was necessary :D



Cobbles!


One day we drove to another crag called Citibi. Really nice drive up to the mountains. Its's located roughly at 1000m. Beautiful clear skies and white glowing mountains. Fresh air and so quiet and peaceful.


Citibi

The crag itself holds number of high grade climbs and only few easy but not so good climbs. Good stuff is 7ish an up. Citify have lot's of potential for new routes. There is nice refugio just few minutes walk from the crag. We saw 3 other climbers. So peaceful and beautiful place!!! Sami And Henkka climbed really nice 6a called Soraya Namaskar.

Sami trying 6c+


On the way back we went to one of the many Götzeme restaurants. We had luxury to have it all to ourselves since it's wasnt't holiday season and middle of the week too! So good!!!




On the way back quick dip in the sea

And the some Efes

After Efes Hamaam

After Hamaam Efes

Every evening we walked around old town. It's really atmospheric place with narrow streets,  it's restaurants and bars. There is good sunset point to old harbour area. Excellent for couple of Efes!



Last climb of this trip we choose 2 pitch 5c. Nice and easy finish. Henkka was on fire so he took the lead. I belayed and watched him progressing the line. It looked bit runout and i thought ok, it's 5c and it should be easy. When he got to the bit wich was vertical it didn't look that easy. Of course on sighting it's easy to miss good holds. He was struggling a bit and i thought please do not fall now. He was in traverse and good 4-5m of rope to last clip. He managed very well. 
 I took off next and i thought hmm quite stiff 5c for the grade. It felt more like 6a o
r harder. Well we had noticed that the grading varied quite a lot so i just enjoyed being in top rope. It was the best pitch i climbed on that trip. Well done Henkka for the bold lead. Ok I'm fuking tired!!! 

Yes it's AUDI shirts!!!!!



 Heart Cave

 A Bug

 EfesEfesEfesEfes!!!!!

 Or Tea???????


AND EFES OF COURSE!!!!!!!


EFEEEEEEEEFEEEEESSSSSS!!!!!!!!!

I'll get back to ya!!!!!! Efeeees!!!!!