maanantai 21. tammikuuta 2013

lauantai 12. tammikuuta 2013

5200+m FA Himalaya alpine style

c sami k c sami k basecamping, shitty part was the water situation, it had to be carried from 4000m to basecamp at 4800m. Whole mountain was dry. Altitude with dehydration is always enjoyable. superb pitch 2 topping out the 4th & 5th pitch, simul climbing with 70m rope. the 6th pitch which I was a bit nervous. Only part of the route with some black lichen. When I arrived the next fixed belay (our highpoint 2 years ago) I pulled out our abseil anchor. it was not attached to rock anymore (one nut). this time we left 2 nuts. self portraiting on the top! (first human ever there) eagles with 2m wing span were circling around us. Samuli P was right, This is the highest point! downclimbing the last 7th pitch, there was no anchor on the top. We had to take turns from previous belay to top. view from the top to last belay the view to south-east from the top. Bara shigri glacier area. back in basecamp on the ground after successful FA of FULL NASHA (340m fin 6-) Photo (C) mostly Pasi K