perjantai 27. toukokuuta 2011

Road side&Korvuli

Hyvä sessio tänään! Kävin Jaalassa kokeilemassa Road side Boulderilla projektia. Kolmas työstökerta. Projektissa oli raskas pinchimuuvi, joka oli kruksi. Huom oli. Tänään keksin skipata koko muuvin ja dynota siderilistaan. Hain toppauksen&muut muuvit kohilleen ja ensinousu tuli helpohkosti uudella sekvenssillä. Linjan nimi Road side ja ehkä 7a:n luokkaa. Hyvää kiveä ja otteetkin miellyttäviä lukuunottamatta terävähköä krimppiä. 7 muuvia, alku lievää hänkkiä. 2 tähtee ansaitsee!

Lähetyksestä innostuneena ajattelin ajella Korvulin kiville. Viimme kerralta jäi projektiksi lievästi hänkkäävä keskilinja isolla kivellä. Korkeutta ehka n. 5m. Alastulo rakenneltiin Mikon kanssa joku aika sitten. 4 pädiä messissä ja suht hyvä alastulo, vähän kuitenkin arvelutti kun olin yksin liikenteessä. Mitä jos toppauksessa tai siellä ylhäällä mokaa? Tippuuko ohi patjojen? Nilkkahan siinä menee tai kantapää. No kokeillaan kuitenkin. Eka yrkkä aika hyvä, keksin jotain uutta. Toka yrkkä ja Viddi topissa!!! Ja vielä helpolta tuntui. Hymyilytti. Muuvit napsahti kohilleen vähä niiku itsestään. Toppauksen kanssa ei ongelmia. Ei mitään seikkailuja sivuille mistä muka vois olla helpomi mennä ylös. Suoraan vaan keskeltä ja korkeimmasta kohdasta päälle. Niin, nimeksi tuli hevosenkenä ja vaikeutta ehkä 6c/+ mene ja tiedä ;)

torstai 26. toukokuuta 2011

20.11.2010 - Oooh, India u will allways be on my mind, and side fling to Thailand!

Childs room waiting for smell of sandal wood. (Kiitokset Pasille vinkistä: Prite)
Trip always starts from the Cuccoo street in Delhi! Lovely place to relax and gather all your thoughts... Celebration through night and day.
Travelling cross some good & some bad shortcut experiences and back (Varanasi&Bodhgaya) towards Hospet. Feeling lucky on train. (10h Diarrhea Cha cha cha! Then the toilet became my temple.)













Bodhgaya, Tip: Search Hindu swimming hall temple.

Hampi with surgigal knife sharp GOOD HOLDS!
Second time for me to visit Sharmillas delicatessen. This time I spended about 2 months teaching my self how to climb bouldering and some practical english. Nice experience. And awesome scenario of good people. Didnt have to wait long to
get teachers from around the world. FULL POWER!
(Respect to Swedish 24/7 team and Busan Climbing master Hwanyong Nam)
Sunset between the boulders was almost beautiful as from monkey temple. Definetly the best place to go and give regards to Hanuman.

Road to lake area. Need rickshaw? Nope.
I rather walk.
(Tree of paradise)
Finnish team, sponsorred by icehockey massage specialist Mika nailed good stuff. I think it was excellent first touch to outdoor climbing.
video

(No beta spraying you fucking muppets! Lets flash this mutherfucking on-sight on second flash attempt)
YOU SUCK!
(This happens when someone TRIES to mount New Zealend-like well shaped rock in India)
-
TON SAI
After spending Christ Mass, new year and Birthday in Goan Corner listening Dj Rantafaris protestsongs/lovesongs, I decided to follow Beuty and the Beast to Ton sai Thailand.
T-rex hands after walking for a hundred times pass lion king... We will meet again some sunny day!
Sport climbing world was already somehow familiar to me. (clip clip) But Ton sai and Thailand offered emotional weather cradle to learn more. Mind over mind.
Thailand, huh huh.

Fuck cup of tea
if you can have
perfect coffee!
(pyramid Cafe)
Ocean sounds, space tracktors(Boats), Food, People & walls filled with smiles. New culture to me but obviosly hit the nail/plate in me. Recomending for beginners, divers, sun worshippers and fire breathers.
When magicbox run out of juice, or mosquitos and night arrives paranoid-filters help you.
New diet with water, full power training and yoga helped me to find different aspect to clipping. Hampi-tan turned back to Love For Ocean. The little sailor in me started to roar. Managed to climb some good routes.













Ocean. (remember to take potatoe brush)
Defenetly taking my SWEET ASS back to these places.
Peace & Love: Positiivari

sunnuntai 15. toukokuuta 2011

Monte Pölly (translates to be absolutely shit-faced)

Story starts from 2008, when I heard rumors of high quality thin cracks on perfect rock, which might be a bit hard to protect, rumors of almost ground-falls, saven only by small aliens.. Even the first ascensionist used some pre-placed gear on FA.. All this sounded too good to be true.

Despite of all I had heard from the place, I had expectations and that might not be good if crag doesn't please. But no worry this place was even better than I expected.

So here's the gem, hidden in deep Sawo. Kuus-aa absolutely Pöllyssä!

Nice photography mostly by Anna Pekkanen.

This is what climbing is all about, hot pussycats and fast cars.

the younger, soon to became a father Pekkanen shows us the moves.

Is this Yosemite? Wearing 5-10 half domes on a half-dome!

Jihaaa!! what's happening here? I am not sure..

Now STOP reading if one wants to keep FAMILY BUSINESS as a onsight!

If this crackline, which doesn't take bomber gear all the way was bolted, I would disagree strongly. Sporty whiners; stay away!

important for serious-trad is to be mentally well prepared, right state of mind is a thin line

this climber got himself too high withour gear, so careful spotting is needed.

first crux

getting already pumped before the another crux

get as much gear-in as possible

similar gear on this place, saved my friend's ass from a groundfall, because gear above this ripped out, according to the tale. (Terveisii Herra H:lle!!)

I am too pumped & scared to do the last (easy) moves. But what can you do? Suck it up.

anna mennä!

the trusted belayer

Smoked-chicken, is there nothing left to eat?


perjantai 13. toukokuuta 2011

Friday the 13th.

Tänään kävi säkä kuusaanpojilla. Pahaenteinen perjantai ei haitannu kun Juike lähetti Korvulinkiven projektin, Ländäystä möyriessä löyty hevosenkenkä joka vahvisti tuntemusta että kyseessä oli poikkeuksellinen perjantai. Jostain kumman syystä meikä pysty heti perään toistamaan ton hieman kuumottavan hänkkikantin

Perjantai 13. 7a (ehkä jopa plussa perään)



Perjantai kolmastoista 7a





Perjantai 13. 6a(absoluuttinen greidi)


































sunnuntai 8. toukokuuta 2011

Gaygearing for 2012 Himachal Pradesh

What is pointing in the skies above there? Another unclimbed granite/quartzite tower I'd say.


Let me introduce Boreals answer for being high (in altitude of course +5000m) at rock climbs and still enjoy it. Experience and the careful choice of gear though makes it easier.

Black pair is called Fire Invernal and it is from this decade. I ordered them from Spain.

Blue pair is Zephyr and I got them from an old school climber who used them last time at 1988!! That is something!

Rubber is still ok, and the ankle protection is superb in comparison to the fancy low-cut models of today, especially in wide cracks (like eklipsi)



(c) pasi

So boys and girls get your gear ready!! Of course only if one is interested in any of +6000m peaks above.. Still unclimbed stuff I guess.