keskiviikko 22. kesäkuuta 2011

maanantai 6. kesäkuuta 2011

Local newswire

Young Ilkka was givin good effort on "värisuora" and a first free-solo ascent of Krishna crack at harju. Well done! But in memorison that gravity can be tricked only for some time not forever.

One of The last unclimbed eye-catching features at the quarry was the thin crackline on the left of sector hyllykkö, this long standing project was brought to its end, by means of delicate nailing up a perfect(visually, yes) crackline at Louhos.

Peckers, small aliens, small cam-hooks (this is placed inside the crack, not a regular one which is for crimps), tied-off knife blades, rp-wires.. small stuff mainly, so bring them all! With these weapons one faces a thin flaring seam on smooth rock and a expanding flake higher. A bit fragilish rock, which doesnt allow much bomber pieces. After initial nailing cracks refuse gear at some point, when it is time to go free by mantling on the ledge. Ohhh but, please one thing, no regular hooks! Fragile small crimps are left for those who aspire the line as a free climb. A true trad headpoint now with high british E-grade.

The most important piece of gear is big cohones to think to be able in tricking the gravity for a while. Spectacular positions and loads of tricky placements, quaranteed.

Me, not much of aid-climbing experienced, only comparison to a graded aid-route I have climbed is a nameless crackline at Olhava (left of los capitanos) A2+. Mörkölinja is at least a + or ++ harder to nail and double as scary. So the grade is proposed around A3- and the following and mandatory free climbing around grade 4ish. And big thanks for the belay to pasi!

Young "Honnold" is givin all he has.

FA of Le Mörkölinja

Mehukatti pitää camhuukkia paikallaan :)