sunnuntai 29. toukokuuta 2011
perjantai 27. toukokuuta 2011
torstai 26. toukokuuta 2011
Fuck cup of tea
sunnuntai 15. toukokuuta 2011
Story starts from 2008, when I heard rumors of high quality thin cracks on perfect rock, which might be a bit hard to protect, rumors of almost ground-falls, saven only by small aliens.. Even the first ascensionist used some pre-placed gear on FA.. All this sounded too good to be true.
Despite of all I had heard from the place, I had expectations and that might not be good if crag doesn't please. But no worry this place was even better than I expected.
So here's the gem, hidden in deep Sawo. Kuus-aa absolutely Pöllyssä!
Nice photography mostly by Anna Pekkanen.
This is what climbing is all about, hot pussycats and fast cars.
the younger, soon to became a father Pekkanen shows us the moves.
Is this Yosemite? Wearing 5-10 half domes on a half-dome!
Jihaaa!! what's happening here? I am not sure..
Now STOP reading if one wants to keep FAMILY BUSINESS as a onsight!
If this crackline, which doesn't take bomber gear all the way was bolted, I would disagree strongly. Sporty whiners; stay away!
important for serious-trad is to be mentally well prepared, right state of mind is a thin line
this climber got himself too high withour gear, so careful spotting is needed.
getting already pumped before the another crux
get as much gear-in as possible
similar gear on this place, saved my friend's ass from a groundfall, because gear above this ripped out, according to the tale. (Terveisii Herra H:lle!!)
I am too pumped & scared to do the last (easy) moves. But what can you do? Suck it up.
the trusted belayer
Smoked-chicken, is there nothing left to eat?
perjantai 13. toukokuuta 2011
sunnuntai 8. toukokuuta 2011
What is pointing in the skies above there? Another unclimbed granite/quartzite tower I'd say.
Let me introduce Boreals answer for being high (in altitude of course +5000m) at rock climbs and still enjoy it. Experience and the careful choice of gear though makes it easier.
Black pair is called Fire Invernal and it is from this decade. I ordered them from Spain.
Blue pair is Zephyr and I got them from an old school climber who used them last time at 1988!! That is something!
Rubber is still ok, and the ankle protection is superb in comparison to the fancy low-cut models of today, especially in wide cracks (like eklipsi)
So boys and girls get your gear ready!! Of course only if one is interested in any of +6000m peaks above.. Still unclimbed stuff I guess.